The future of skincare - nutricosmetics
Healthspan nurture combines Healthspan’s expertise in nutrition alongside that of doctors and dermatologists in skin health. That’s why for over 8 years we have recommended our unique philosophy of inner health and outer beauty – feeding skin both from within and on the outside. However, the rest of the world is now catching up and a new wave of ‘ingestible beauty’ commonly known as ‘nutricosmetics’ are sweeping the anti ageing skincare market.
Analyze & Realize AG is a consulting company which evaluates market trends and ingredients, specialising in nutraceuticals, herbal medicines, functional foods and cosmeceuticals. Dr. Anja Dahten is senior consultant at A&R. We asked her how this trend is evolving and toexplain the exciting new developments within this category of skincare.
It is well-known that a balanced diet is important for our health. Our skin, hair and nails are sensitive indicators of nutritional deficiencies. As a consequence, food, drinks and dietary supplements with anti-ageing benefits are currently the most innovative products on the beauty market. These so called “nutricosmetics” promise to support healthy skin, hair and nails.
Historically, plant ingredients have been used in topical and oral applications for various dermatological benefits. Topically used ingredients are directly applied to the skin and hair. However, large molecules (vitamins, peptides) cannot penetrate to the lower skin layers without additional transport systems. Orally ingesting bioactive nutrients avoids external oxidation and can increase bioavailability. Additionally, efficient long-term effects on deeper skin layers can be continuously achieved through bloodstream supply. Because of these different delivery systems, the most efficient way to fully exploit the natural potential seems to combine the benefits of nutricosmetics and cosmetics; both from the inside and on the outside.
The main purpose of nutricosmetics is to slow down the ageing process through botanical ingredients with antioxidant properties which fight against cell-damaging free radicals. Nutricosmetics can also help to replenish essential nutrients for healthy skin that decline with age. The main innovations stem from Japan following their traditional lifestyle and diet, which uses plants and herbal extracts in skin care regimes.
The main innovative ingredients are currently offered by polyphenolrich plant extracts, including leaves (tea), fruits (berries), seeds (grapes, cocoa), roots (ginger), oils (nuts) and barks (pine bark). Carotenoids (ß-carotine, lycopene) are the best-researched ingredients with photoprotective- derived anti-aging effects. Conclusive data is also provided by plant-derived, oestrogen-like substances (isoflavones) from soy or red clover in applications for women who have experienced or are experiencing the menopause.
“Beauty drinks and beverages” currently seems to be the strongest growing segment in beauty market. They benefit from combining the natural hydration effect with bioactive fortification. The most highly demanded products are herbal teas (red, green, black), followed by exotic fruit and berry juices (açai, goji, pomegranate) or fruit-flavored, fortified waters (vitamin A, C, E, selenium, zinc).
Substantial clinical research, combined with innovative development, including new actives, is set to keep the nutricosmetic segment of the cosmetic industry interesting and exciting. Continued scientific developments and efficacytested products will remove uncertainties and keep the segment growing, so look out for many new innovations coming soon.
back to the top »
Dr Anja Dahten
Senior consultant as Analyze & Realize AG, a German-based consultancy which evaluates market trends and ingredients, specialising in nutraceuticals, herbal medicines, functional foods and cosmeceuticals. Anja studied nutritional science and earned a PhD in medical science at the Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University-Medicine, Charite (Berlin).